时讯：感恩节最初不是吃火鸡 是玉米大餐(双语)

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today，thetraditionalthanksgivingdinnerincludesanynumberofdishes:turkey，stuffing，mashed potatoes，candied yams， cranberrysauceandpumpkinpie.butifoneweretocreateahistoricalyaccuratefeast， consistingofonlythosefoodsthathistoriansarecertainwereservedattheso-called“first thanksgiving”是“therewouldbeslimmerpicking” ingrainformforbreadorforporridge，was there. venison was there，”

twoprimarysources-theonlysurvivingdocumentsthatreferencethemeal-confirmthatthesestapleswerepartoftheharvestcelebrationsharres ymouthcolonyin 1621.Edward Winslow，an english leader who attended，wrote home to a friend :

“our harvest being gotten in，ourgovernorsentfourmenonfowling， thatsowemightafteraspecialmannerrejoicetogetherafterwehadgatheredthefruitofourlabors.theyfourinonedaykiledasmuchfowlas，with a servedthecompanyalmostaweek.atwhichtime，amongst other recreations，we exercised our arms， manyoftheindianscomingamongstus、andamongtheresttheirgreatestkingmassasoit、with some ninety men、whomforthreedaysweentertainedans andtheywentoutandkilledfivedeer，whichtheybroughttotheplantationandbestowedougor

william bradford，the governor winslow mentions，also described the autumn of 1621，adding， “andbesideswaterfowltherewasgreatstoreofwildturkeys，of which they took many，besides venison，etc. besides，theyhadaboutapeckameals

butdeterminingwhatelsethecolonistsandwampanoagmighthaveeatenatthe 17 th-centuryfeasttakessomedigging.toformeducatedgueses， butdetermining.toformeducatedgueses afoodwaysculinarianatplimothplantation，a living history museum in plymouth，massachusetts， studiescookbooksanddescriptionsofgardensfromtheperiod，archaeologicalremainssuchaspollensamplesthatmightclueherintowhathathecod

ourdiscussionbeginswiththebird.turkeywasnotthecenterpieceofthemeal，as it is today， explains wall.thoughitispossiblethecolonistsandamericanindianscookedwildturkey，shesuspectsthatgooseorduckwasthewildfowlofchois shehasfoundthatswanandpassengerpigeonswouldhavebeenavailableaswell .“passenger pigeons-extinctinthewildforoveracenturynw -”。 thick in the 1620s，theysaidyoucouldhearthemaquarter-hourbeforeyousawthem，“says wall .”theysayamancouldshootatthebirdsflin。

smallbirdswereoftenspit-roasted，whilelargerbirdswereboiled .“ialsothinksomebirds-inalotofrecipesyouseethis-wereboled”。 thenroastedtofinishthemoff.orthingsareroastedfirstandthenboiled，“says wall .”theearlyroastinggivesthemnicerflavor，sortofcara

itispossiblethatthebirdswerestuffed，though probably not with bread。 ( bread、made from maize not wheat、was likely a part of the meal、butexactlyhowitwasmadeisunknown )。 ) thepilgrimsinsteadstuffedbirdswithchunksofonionandherbs .“thereisawonderfulstuffingforgooseinthe 17 th-centurythatisjushst”。 chestnuts，“says wall .”“iamthinkingofthatrightnow，and it is sounding very nice”。 sincethefirstthanksgivingwasathree-day celebration、she adds、“ihavenodoubtwhatsoeverthatbirdsthatareroastedoneday”、 theremainsofthemareallthrowninapotandboileduptomakebroththenextday.thatbroththickenedwithgraintomakeapotage .”。

in addition to wildfowl and deer，thecolonistsandwampanoagprobablyateelsandshellfish，such as lobster，clamsandmussels .“theyweredryy

according to the culinarian，the wampanoag，like most eastern woodlands people，HADA“variedandextremelygooddiet”。 the forest provided chestnuts，walnutsandbeechnuts .“theygrewflintcorn ( multicoloredindiancorn )，andthatwastheirstaple.theth。 whichtheyusedfromwhentheyweresmallandgreenuntilwhentheyweremature，“says wall .”theyalsohaddifferentsortsofpumpkinsorsqushash

as we are taught in school，theindiansshowedthe colonistshowtoplantnativecrops .“theenglishcolonistsplantgardensinmarchof 1620 and 1621 “says wall .“we don”tknowexactlywhat’sinthosegardens.butinlatersources，they talk about turnips，carrots，onions，Grall”

of course，to some extent，theexerciseofreimaginingthespreadoffoodatthe 1621 celebrationbecomesaprocessofelimination.youlookatwhate youseelotsofpiesinthefirstcourseandinthesecondcourse，meatandfishpies.tocookaturkeyinapiewasnotterriblyuncommon，， saylaswas“thecolonistsdidnothavebutterandwheatflourtomakecrustsforpiesandtarts.( that’s right:nopumpkinpie )！ “that is a blank in the table，foranenglisheye.sowhataretheyputtingoninstead？ i think meat，meat and more meat，“says wall”。

meat without potatoes，that is. white potatoes，originating in south america，and sweet potatoes，from the caribbean，hadyettoinfiltratens therewouldhavebeennocranberrysauce.itwouldbeanother 50 yearsbeforeanenglishmanwroteaboutboilingcranberiesandsugarintoa ' sucuctoa beer，therewereonlyacoupleofgallonsfor 150 Peopleforthreedays”shethinksthattowashitalldowntheenglishandwampanoagdrankwater。

all this，naturally，begsafollow-up question.sohowdidthethanksgivingmenuevolveintowhatitistoday？

wallexplainsthatthethanksgivingholiday，as we know it，tookrootinthemid-19 th century.atthi stime， Edward Winslow’s leter printedinapamphletcalledmourt’s relation，andgovernorbradford’smanuscript，titled of plimoth plantation， wererediscoveredandpublished.bostonclergymanalexanderyoungprintedwinslow’sletterinhischroniclesofthepilgrimfathers， andinthefootnotestotheresurrectedletter， hesomewhatarbitrarilydeclaredthefeastthefirstthanksgiving.( wallandothersatplimothplantationprefertocallit“theharvestcebeles” therewasnostalgiaforcolonialtimes，and by the 1850s，moststatesandterritorieswerecelebratingthanksgiving。

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